Split: Roman Emperors, Waterfalls, Wine, & One Last Dalmatian Meal

The final chapter of our Croatian journey takes us from Hvar across the Adriatic to Split—where a Roman emperor’s retirement palace became a living city, waterfalls tumble through the Croatian countryside, and one recommendation from a bartender leads to one of the best meals of the trip.

There are certain trips where, by the final few days, you feel like you’ve figured out the rhythm of the place. Croatia had become that way for us.

We had started in Dubrovnik, worked our way along the Dalmatian coast, crossed over to Hvar, explored the island by bike, spent a full day on the Adriatic visiting Vis and the Blue Cave, swam in impossibly clear water, ate fresh seafood, and learned that sometimes the best part of traveling is simply leaving enough room in the schedule for something unexpected to happen.

Now there was one final stop: Split.

But before leaving Hvar, there was still time for one more meal.

One Last Lunch in Hvar

We had eaten at La Bocca earlier in our stay and liked it enough that there really wasn’t much discussion about where to have our final lunch. We went back.

There is something I like about returning to a restaurant when traveling. You spend most of a trip constantly searching for what’s next—the next view, the next town, the next plate of food. Going back somewhere simply because you enjoyed it the first time feels different.

This time we kept it simple: a fresh Margherita pizza, Dalmatian prosciutto, a Greek salad, and some local wine.

After lunch, we made our way toward Hvar’s harbor, grabbed a final coffee near the waterfront, and sat watching the boats come and go. If you’ve followed this journey from Dubrovnik, you’ve probably noticed a recurring theme: Croatia is very good at making you slow down. A cappuccino beside the Adriatic while waiting for a ferry isn’t really “doing” anything. And that’s exactly the point.

Hvar to Split — Across the Adriatic

The fast catamaran between Hvar Town and Split takes roughly 1 hour and 5 minutes. After the longer boat trips we’d taken during the previous few days, this one seemed almost too easy. You board in Hvar, settle in, watch the islands pass by, and before long, the skyline of Split appears ahead.

Split is a very different experience from Hvar. Hvar feels like an island sanctuary; Split feels like a dynamic, historic city.

The ferry port sits just south of the historic center. Ours was roughly a mile walk to our accommodation—a pleasant introduction to the city streets. Once you reach the historic center, you realize something remarkable: you aren’t simply looking at Roman ruins. You are walking through them.

Diocletian’s Palace: The Complex That Became a City

To understand Split, you have to understand Diocletian’s Palace.

Roman Emperor Diocletian began construction of his enormous retirement complex here around A.D. 293, near the Roman provincial capital of Salona. After roughly a decade of construction, Diocletian abdicated the throne in A.D. 305 and retired here.

Calling it a “palace” doesn't quite capture what you're seeing. Covering roughly 30,000 square meters, it combined a lavish imperial residence with the layout of a Roman military camp (castrum). The southern section contained the emperor’s apartments and ceremonial spaces, while the northern section housed guards, servants, and support functions.

Diocletian picked this location for reasons beyond the view: the area had natural sulfur springs. Historical tradition holds that Diocletian suffered from severe rheumatism and valued the therapeutic properties of the mineral water.

After Diocletian’s death and the decline of Roman power, the palace evolved. During the 7th century, refugees fleeing nearby Salona sought protection inside the massive Roman walls. Homes were built within former imperial rooms, churches occupied pagan temples, and public streets developed along ancient corridors.

Over centuries, the palace became the city. Croatian kings, Hungarian rulers, Venetians, the French, and the Austro-Hungarian Empire all left their mark. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979, Diocletian's Palace isn't a roped-off museum—it’s a living city where locals still live, work, shop, and grab a drink inside 1,700-year-old walls.

Guided Walking Tour: Uncovering Split’s Secrets

Taking a guided walking tour early in your stay is essential. While wandering aimlessly is fun, a guide reveals details you would otherwise walk straight past: a Roman column incorporated into a medieval home, or an alleyway that precisely matches an ancient palace corridor.

Gregory of Nin — The Giant Outside the Golden Gate

Standing just outside the Golden Gate (the ancient northern entrance Diocletian used in A.D. 305) is one of Split’s most recognizable landmarks: a gigantic bronze figure with one hand raised toward the sky.

This is Gregory of Nin (Grgur Ninski), a 10th-century Croatian bishop who advocated using the Old Slavonic language in religious services. Created by renowned Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović, the statue stands over seven meters tall.

The history of the monument is as dramatic as its scale:

• 1929: Unveiled inside the Peristyle of Diocletian’s Palace.
• 1941: Dismantled and removed by occupying Italian forces during WWII due to its potent Croatian national symbolism.
• 1954: Reassembled and installed in its current location outside the Golden Gate.

Pro tip: If you notice Gregory’s big toe looks unusually polished, it's because local tradition says rubbing it brings good luck.

The Fish Market with No Flies

Our guide shared a local fact that sounds like a myth: Split’s historic fish market (Peškarija) has virtually no flies.

In a warm Mediterranean climate surrounded by fresh catch, this seems impossible. The explanation brings us back to Emperor Diocletian: the fish market was built directly over those ancient sulfur springs. The subtle sulfur scent—barely noticeable to humans—keeps the flies away. History survives in unexpected ways.

Dining in Split: Bokeria & Villa Spiza

Dinner at Bokeria

That evening, we dined at Bokeria Kitchen & Wine, named as a nod to Barcelona’s famous La Boqueria market. It was one of the most polished dining experiences of our trip—exceptional service, great atmosphere, and an outstanding Croatian wine list. We shared black risotto, fresh fish, and steak.

Asking the Bartender: Finding Villa Spiza

The following evening, we stopped for a drink around People’s Square (Narodni Trg or Pjaca) in a charming courtyard bar connected to the Judita Palace Heritage Hotel. We asked our bartender the ultimate travel question: "Where would you go eat tonight?"

He pointed us down a narrow alley to Villa Spiza.

Villa Spiza is tiny, split across two small spaces in an ancient alleyway. One side houses an open kitchen with barely a dozen seats; the other has a few intimate tables. There is no laminated tourist menu—just a daily handwritten menu based on whatever was fresh at the market that morning. We sat right next to the kitchen, watching simple, phenomenal food prepared right in front of us.

Day Trip to Krka National Park & Dalmatian Wine

The next morning, we took a day trip to Krka National Park, designated in 1985 to protect the natural ecosystem of the Krka River.

We booked an organized group excursion (which included a local winery stop), making the 75-minute drive effortless.

Skradinski Buk & Hydroelectric History

Krka encompasses seven major waterfall systems, the most famous being Skradinski Buk, where the river tumbles over natural travertine barriers into lush pools. Wood boardwalks wind directly over the water and past restored historic watermills that once ground grain for all of Dalmatia.

Historical detail: In 1895, the Jaruga Hydroelectric Power Plant at Skradinski Buk began sending electricity to nearby Šibenik—operating just two days after Nikola Tesla’s famous Niagara Falls installation.

Behind the Poster Design

When we create our Split Travel Poster, we will face a unique design challenge: how do you capture a city whose primary landmark isn't a single structure, but an entire layered city? Diocletian’s Palace is Roman columns, medieval bell towers, stone arches, and modern cafes rolled into one living canvas. Our artwork will reflect this architectural layering—a homage to a palace built for an emperor that became a home for generations. Stay tuned….

Travel Posters™ — Bring the Journey Home.

Split Travel Guide & Frequently Asked Questions

How many days do you need in Split?

Plan for at least 3 to 4 days. Use two days to explore Diocletian’s Palace, take a guided walking tour, and enjoy the waterfront Riva. Use the third or fourth day for day trips to destinations like Krka National Park, Trogir, or the nearby island of Šolta.

How long is the ferry from Hvar to Split?

• Hvar Town to Split (Catamaran): ~1 hour 5 minutes via direct fast ferry (Jadrolinija or Krilo).
• Stari Grad to Split (Car Ferry): ~2 hours. If traveling on foot, always book the direct passenger catamaran from Hvar Town.

Is Split worth visiting after Dubrovnik?

Yes, they offer completely different atmospheres. Dubrovnik is a pristine, enclosed medieval fortress. Split is an active, vibrant city built directly inside the living ruins of an ancient Roman palace complex.

Do you need a car in Split?

No. The historic center is strictly pedestrianized. The ferry terminal, train station, restaurants, and sights are all easily walkable. For day trips like Krka National Park, organized tours or regional buses are more convenient than driving and parking.

What is the best time of year to visit Split?

The shoulder seasons—May–June and September–October—offer warm weather, open attractions, and far fewer crowds than peak July–August.

How do you get from Split Old Town to Split Airport (SPU)?

Split Airport is located about 12 miles (19 km) west of the city center. Options include:

1. Pre-booked Private Transfer: The most seamless option for international connections (we used Booking.com).
2. Airport Shuttle Bus: Leaves from the main Split Bus Station (Kolodvor) near the ferry port (~30–40 minutes).
3. Taxi/Uber: Readily available outside the Old Town pedestrian zones.

Our Complete Croatia Itinerary

If you want to recreate our entire journey along the Dalmatian Coast, follow our multi-part series:

1. Part 1: Dubrovnik — Walking the Historic City Walls
2. Part 2: Hvar — Biking, Lavender, and Coastal Living
3. Part 3: Vis & The Blue Cave — Exploring the Outer Adriatic
4. Part 4: Pakleni Islands — Hidden Cove Swimming & Island Seafood
5. Part 5: Split — Roman Emperors, Waterfalls, Wine & Villa Spiza (You are here)

There’s a Croatian expression that fits better than simply saying goodbye: Doviđenja. It carries the meaning of "until we see each other again."

Doviđenja, Croatia.