Three Days in Dubrovnik, Croatia: Why This Medieval City Completely Captured Our Hearts

By Mike Whalen | Mike’s Journal | TravelPosters.com

“Travel has a funny way of reminding us why we fell in love with exploring in the first place. Sometimes it’s the view. Sometimes it’s the people. Sometimes it’s a quiet street at sunrise that you’ll remember long after you’ve forgotten the names of the museums.”

That was Dubrovnik for us.

Like many travelers, we’d seen the photographs for years: the ancient stone walls, the vibrant terracotta rooftops, and the impossibly blue Adriatic Sea. We’d watched scenes from Game of Thrones and heard countless friends tell us that Dubrovnik was one of Europe’s most breathtaking coastal destinations.

The question was… could it possibly live up to the hype?

Three days later, the answer was an easy, resounding yes.

Our Croatia adventure eventually took us through Dubrovnik, Hvar, and Split, but it all began right here—walking through a medieval gate before sunrise, discovering local wines, wandering island pine forests filled with peacocks, and jumping off limestone cliffs into the sea.

Dubrovnik at a Glance

 

Getting There Is Easier Than You Think

One of our biggest surprises was how straightforward reaching Croatia’s southern coast from the United States has become.

During peak summer months, nonstop direct flights on United Airlines connect Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR) directly into Dubrovnik (DBV).

We boarded our overnight flight, settled in, and followed my golden jet-lag rule (which I detailed in Why Europe Changes the Way You See the World): eat lightly, skip the second inflight meal, sleep as much as possible, and get outside into daylight immediately after landing.

By the time we collected our bags in Dubrovnik, we were rested and ready to hit the ground running.

Pro-Tip: Arrange Airport Transportation in Advance

If I can emphasize one practical recommendation: book your airport transfer before you land.

There were five of us traveling together with enough luggage to make a standard European hatchback break out in a cold sweat. Having a private van pre-booked and waiting outside the terminal eliminated arrival stress and let us focus on the spectacular 20-minute coastal drive into the city.

The highway hugs Croatia’s cliffside coastline, offering sweeping views of turquoise water and rugged limestone drops.

🎨 The Designer’s Angle

Being creative minded and always on the lookout for inspiration, I found myself captivated by the visual palette of southern Dalmatia. The contrast between the stark white limestone, the warm rust-orange tiles, and the sheer depth of the Adriatic cobalt blue is a masterclass in color theory. Great destinations have a distinct visual energy—and Dubrovnik speaks to you long before you reach the city gates.

Twenty minutes after leaving the airport, we arrived at Pile Gate, the western entrance to Dubrovnik’s Old Town.

Walking Through Pile Gate & Resisting the Urge to Nap

Passing through Pile Gate isn’t just entering a city; it’s stepping into living history.

For centuries, these massive stone walls protected the Republic of Ragusa. Every evening, the drawbridge was raised to safeguard the harbor. Today, visitors carry cameras instead of armor, but the magic remains untouched. Immediately inside sits Large Onofrio’s Fountain, built in 1438. Six hundred years later, travelers still fill their water bottles from its cold spring water.

Our Airbnb sat tucked deep within the pedestrian-only Old Town. Despite the urge to crash after our flight, we dropped our bags and headed right back out into the streets.

We strolled for a little while, grabbed a small bite to eat, had some cold refreshing sparkling water to hydrate, a little bit of local Ožujsko beer and Croatian wine. We talked about our ideas for the trip and after a little while got back up to walk for another 45 minutes before heading back to the Airbnb. We unpacked, took a small power nap for about an hour, got up, showered, and headed out for the evening.

The Hidden Wine Bar We’ll Never Forget: M’arden

When traveling, serendipitous culinary finds are often the highlights you remember most. For us, that spot was M’arden Wine Bar.

Tucked away in a lush, secret garden patio inside the Old Town walls (on Ulica od Domina), M’arden feels like a private Mediterranean oasis.

Instead of ordering standard glasses, ask for a curated wine-tasting flight. Croatia produces some of Europe’s most exceptional wines, but because production is handled by small, family-owned vineyards, very few bottles ever reach North American shelves.

Our server, Tamara, turned our impromptu happy hour into an interactive masterclass. She guided us through local indigenous grapes:

• Pošip & Grk: Crisp, minerals-driven whites perfect for fresh Adriatic seafood.
• Plavac Mali & Dingač: Bold, sun-drenched reds packed with dark fruit and earthiness.

Travel Philosophy: Always drink what the locals drink, eat what the locals eat, and ask questions. You'll walk away with a far better story than if you ordered a familiar Cabernet.

Game of Thrones & A Slow Afternoon on Lokrum Island

Yes, you should absolutely take a Game of Thrones walking tour—even if you've only casually watched the show. Walking past the Jesuit Stairs (the site of the infamous "Walk of Shame") while local guides share behind-the-scenes stories from the filming production offers great context on how Hollywood reshaped modern tourism here.

But once you’ve checked King's Landing off your list, it's time to escape the crowds.

Escaping to Lokrum Island

A short 15-minute ferry ride from the Old Port takes you to Lokrum Island. Within minutes, the bustle of the city vanishes into quiet pine forests, botanical gardens, and wandering peacocks.

We spent the afternoon dining under the shade of olive trees at the island monastery—enjoying chilled gazpacho, fresh bruschetta, and local Pošip wine while peacocks casually strolled past our table.

Island Hopping the Elafitis: The 5-Person Uber Experience

The following morning, we booked a full-day island cruise through the Elafiti Islands aboard the Regina Maris.

Of course, no trip is complete without a hilarious logistical blunder. I had mistakenly booked an Uber designed for four passengers. We were a party of five—plus gear. Let’s just say my daughter got extremely creative squeezed into the back seat while our local driver spent the journey praying we wouldn’t pass a traffic checkpoint.

It wasn't elegant, but those chaotic moments always end up being the stories you laugh about for years.

The cruise sailed through three distinct islands:

• Koločep: Quiet fishing villages and sea caves.
• Šipan: Historic stone villas surrounded by citrus groves.
• Lopud (Šunj Beach): A gorgeous, shallow sandy bay filled with anchored sailboats.

Once we were on the third island, you have the option of taking a golf cart for about €10 over to the other side Šunj Beach. This is what we planned to do and had our bathing suits and towels ready as we had the longest stop of any of the islands. I think it was a total of two hours, maybe 2 1/2. The golf cart was fun and we got to be on this other side which had catamarans anchored off in the harbor as we gazed upon the azure water glistening against the sun. I grabbed an ice-cold Ožujsko (Croatia’s iconic crisp lager), waded into the calm warm water, and took it all in. Some drinks are memorable because of the vintage; others are memorable because of the view.

Side note : You can lay on your towel on the beach, but there are chairs available at this side. Note that they are for rent and they are usually about €10 each-but well worth it. We were able to get three of them for €20 talking to the attendant-and they do accept credit cards.

The Cliff Jump at Buža Bar

Returning to Dubrovnik in the late afternoon, we capped off the day at Buža Bar—literally a hole-in-the-wall to find—drinking spot unbelievably perched on the outer cliffs outside the city walls.

Watching locals and travelers jump and dive off the high cliffs into the deep blue sea below looked equal parts intimidating and irresistible. Eventually, one by one, every single member of our group stepped up to the rocky ledge... and jumped.

Hitting that crystal-clear, icy sea water was electric—an instant adrenaline rush that made us immediately hike back up the rocks to do it again.

⚠️ Safety Tip: If you attempt the jump at Buža, always check water depth first, observe where locals enter and exit, never dive headfirst, and stick to heights you are entirely comfortable with. f you want to experience Dubrovnik at its most authentic, wake up before the town opens its doors:

Explorer Tip: Get out and see the city early

Why?

The Light: Early morning light casts soft golden tones across the polished limestone main street (the Stradun).

 The Atmosphere: Restaurant owners quietly set up tables, local cats weave through narrow alleys, and fresh pastries drift from hidden bakeries.

 The Solitude: You get the world-famous stone corridors virtually to yourself before the day-trippers arrive.

The Verdict: Is Dubrovnik Worth It?

Without question.

Dubrovnik isn't the cheapest destination along the Dalmatian Coast, but value isn't just a function of cost—it's measured in moments.

Walking marble streets before the sun hits the rooftops, sharing stories over indigenous wines, swimming in hidden coves, and laughing off minor travel mishaps... those memories stay with you long after the credit card bill is paid.

Quick Summary of Mike's Top Tips

• Fly direct: Look for United's seasonal direct flights out of Newark (EWR).
• Buy the Dubrovnik Pass: Get the 3-day pass (€50) to cover the City Walls and unlock discounts across town.
• Beat the heat: Explore the Old Town between 6:30 AM and 8:30 AM.
• Sip local: Visit M’arden Wine Bar for a guided tasting of Plavac Mali and Pošip.
• Take a day trip: Book a ferry to Lokrum or a full-day cruise through the Elafiti Islands.

The following morning, we packed our bags and boarded the high-speed ferry from Gruž Harbor bound for the island of Hvar.

If Dubrovnik introduced us to Croatia… Hvar made us fall head over heels in love with it.

Stay tuned for Part Two!

Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Dubrovnik

How many days do you really need in Dubrovnik?

Three days is the sweet spot for a first-time visit. It gives you enough time to explore the Old Town without rushing, walk the ancient City Walls early in the morning, take a half-day escape to Lokrum Island or the Elafiti Islands, and enjoy evening cliff jumping and wine tasting. If you stay longer, Dubrovnik also makes a great base for day trips to Montenegro or Mostar.

Is the Dubrovnik Pass actually worth buying?

Yes, absolutely. A standalone adult ticket to walk the Dubrovnik City Walls costs €40. Meanwhile, the 3-Day Dubrovnik Pass costs €50 and includes entrance to the walls, entry to key historic museums (like Rector's Palace and the Franciscan Monastery), local bus rides, and discounts on ferries and local attractions. It pays for itself virtually the moment you step onto the walls.

Is tap water safe to drink in Dubrovnik (and from Onofrio’s Fountain)?

Yes! Croatia has some of the cleanest drinking water in Europe. Tap water throughout Dubrovnik is completely safe to drink, and you can safely fill your water bottle directly at Large Onofrio’s Fountain or any others you see.  We filled our bottles up continuously. Locals and travelers have been drinking cold spring water from the carved stone faces on Onofrio since 1438.

What is the best time of day to avoid crowds in Dubrovnik?

The single best time to experience Old Town without crowds is between 6:30 AM and 8:30 AM. Cruise ship day-trippers usually begin arriving around 9:30 AM, and summer heat peaks by midday. Heading out at sunrise gives you cool temperatures, empty marble streets, and incredible golden-hour light for photos.

Can you swim in the sea right outside the Old Town walls?

Yes, and it’s one of the best experiences in the city! Spots like Buža Bar feature open-air cliffside seating where you can grab a cold beer and walk down rocky ledges straight into the Adriatic Sea. Just be cautious of changing water conditions, never dive headfirst, and only jump from heights you feel completely comfortable with.

Further Reading

Why Europe Changes the Way You See the World

Why Your Next Trip Shouldn't Be a Checklist