By Mike Whalen | Mike’s Journal | TravelPosters.com

Where Is Mike? — Croatia, Part 2

After three remarkable days exploring Dubrovnik, it was time to continue our journey north along Croatia’s Dalmatian coast.

Dubrovnik had given us massive stone walls, centuries of history, and a city whose resilience could be felt beneath every polished limestone step. Now we were leaving the mainland behind and heading toward Hvar, an island known for its historic harbor, Venetian architecture, local wines, Mediterranean climate, and clear Adriatic water.

What I did not yet understand was that Hvar would become much more than another beautiful stop on our Croatian itinerary.

Within only a few hours of arriving, a chance conversation would change our plans for the following day. A restaurant hostess would find a way to accommodate our family when there appeared to be no room. A small cocktail bar hidden behind the waterfront would become one of our favorite places to return to.

That is one of the great lessons of travel: the destination may bring you there, but the people and unexpected moments are often what remain with you.

Sometimes the best experiences are not the ones you scheduled months in advance. They are the ones waiting for you when you arrive.

Continuing Our Journey From Dubrovnik

This article is Part 2 of our Croatia series and continues directly from our time in Dubrovnik.

Read Part 1: Three Days in Dubrovnik, Croatia

Our journey from Dubrovnik to Hvar began at Dubrovnik’s Gruž ferry port. Gruž is located outside the Old City and serves as Dubrovnik’s principal passenger port for ferries, cruise ships, and regional maritime connections.

We had already arranged our tickets online, which made the departure process straightforward. During the busier travel months, I strongly recommend purchasing ferry tickets in advance rather than waiting until the day of travel.

Croatia’s seasonal high-speed catamarans connect Dubrovnik with Korčula, Hvar, and Split. Current schedules vary by season and operator, but the direct journey from Dubrovnik to Hvar generally takes approximately 3 to 3.5 hours. TP Line’s seasonal route, for example, travels from Dubrovnik through Korčula before reaching Hvar and continuing toward Milna and Split.

We booked through Ferryhopper rather than directly through an operator. Ferryhopper is a booking platform that displays multiple Croatian ferry routes and operators, while companies such as TP Line and Krilo operate the vessels themselves. Because schedules and operators can change from one season to another, travelers should confirm the actual carrier, boarding location, and departure time shown on their ticket.

Mike’s Tip: Arrive at the port a little early—it’s worth it. Directly across the street is Bistro 49 Food & Bar, a relaxed little spot shaded by a huge canopy. It’s the perfect place to catch the cool sea breeze while enjoying a chilled glass of Pošip or an Ožujsko beer before departure. 

Quick Facts About Hvar

Hvar’s official tourism history reaches back to 1868, when the Hvar Hygienic Society was established. The local tourism board describes this as the beginning of organized tourism on the island and refers to Hvar as the cradle of Croatian tourism.

Our Ferry Ride From Dubrovnik to Hvar

The ferry ride itself was comfortable and easy.

After the activity of Dubrovnik, the journey gave us several hours to slow down, cool off, and watch the Croatian coastline pass by. The vessel was enclosed and air-conditioned, with luggage stored separately from the seating area.

Seating on these high-speed passenger ferries is usually first come, first served. Although the operator may only require travelers to arrive a short time before departure, I recommend arriving considerably earlier during the summer season so you can board without feeling rushed and have a better choice of seats.

We sat toward the front of the ferry and noticed that the air conditioning was stronger there than in the rear. That may vary by vessel, but it made a meaningful difference during a warm summer crossing.

Mike’s Ferry Advice

• Book before your trip, particularly during June, July, and August.
  
  
• Confirm the operator. Check whether your ticket was purchased from a booking platform or directly from the ferry operator.
  
  
• Check the exact boarding location instead of simply entering "Dubrovnik ferry" into your map.
  
  
• Arrive early enough to join the boarding line before it becomes crowded (30 to 60 minutes before departure).
  
  
• Keep essentials accessible: keep your passport, ticket, and phone easily reachable.
  
  
• Pack a carry-on: store anything you need during the voyage in a small carry-on bag, as larger luggage is stowed separately.
  
  
• Bring water, although refreshments may be available onboard.
  
  
• Choose a front seat when possible if cabin temperature and air circulation are important to you.

A Brief History of Hvar

It is easy to arrive in Hvar, look at the yachts and waterfront cafés, and assume that the island’s story is primarily about modern tourism.

It is not.

The island has been shaped by thousands of years of settlement, trade, agriculture, conflict, and cultural exchange.

Greek settlers founded the colony of Pharos in 384 BC near present-day Stari Grad. The agricultural landscape they organized survives in the Stari Grad Plain, where the ancient pattern of stone divisions and fields remains remarkably intact. That cultural landscape is now recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Hvar later became part of the Roman world and, during the medieval and early modern periods, developed under strong Venetian influence. The stone architecture, defensive walls, public buildings, and harbor layout visible in Hvar Town today reflect that history.

Construction of Hvar’s hilltop fortress began after the town came under Venetian rule in 1278. A new fortress was completed on the site in the 16th century, providing refuge during an Ottoman attack in 1571. After a lightning strike caused an explosion in its gunpowder storage area in 1579, the fortress was repaired and strengthened again in the following century.

Hvar’s location was strategically important. Its sheltered harbor sat along maritime routes that connected Venice with the eastern Mediterranean. Ships could stop for provisions, repairs, and protection before continuing along the Adriatic.

Today, visitors experience the result of those overlapping eras: ancient agricultural traditions, Venetian civic architecture, Dalmatian stone houses, church squares, defensive structures, and a living waterfront that still connects the island with the outside world.

A Visual Timeline of Hvar

Arriving in Hvar Town

Our ferry delivered us directly into the main harbor of Hvar Town.

The transition from ship to Old Town was immediate. There was no long transfer, no rental-car counter, and no congested road separating us from the historic center. We stepped off the ferry and walked directly into a Mediterranean harbor framed by pale stone buildings, church towers, cafés, and boats resting on unbelievably blue water.

The waterfront promenade is commonly known as the Riva. It forms the social and visual front door of Hvar Town. From there, the old streets rise gradually—and sometimes not so gradually—away from the water.

Hvar Town is the largest settlement on the island and is known for its Venetian architectural heritage. Its main square, St. Stephen’s Square, is considered the largest historic square in Dalmatia.

The moment we arrived, the architecture began speaking to us. Small stone thoroughfares disappeared between buildings. Steps climbed toward homes, restaurants, and hidden courtyards. Laundry hung above passageways, shutters opened onto narrow streets, and polished stones reflected the late-afternoon sun.

I had studied the map before arriving, but I had misunderstood how pedestrian-oriented the historic center really was. I assumed that some of the routes shown on the map were streets accessible to cars.

They were not. Once you enter the heart of Old Town, you are navigating a network of footpaths, stone alleys, and stairs. That is part of Hvar’s charm, but it is something travelers should understand before arriving with luggage.

Plan Your Route Before Carrying Your Luggage Uphill

Our accommodations were less than a ten-minute walk from the harbor. We could have reached them more directly by climbing one of the staircases, but we initially followed a longer route with a more gradual incline.

The walk was not particularly difficult, but rolling suitcases over old stone surfaces is very different from pulling them across a hotel lobby.

Before arrival, check:

• The actual walking route from the harbor.
• The number of stairs along the route.
• The elevation change.
• Whether your accommodation provides luggage assistance.
• Whether the property is accessible for someone with mobility limitations.

A location that appears only a few hundred feet from the waterfront may involve a steep climb. Conversely, a slightly longer route may be far easier because it avoids a major staircase. Hvar is extremely walkable, but walkable does not always mean flat.

Staying in Historic Stone Homes

There were five of us traveling together, and we needed two separate sleeping spaces.

Rather than reserve two hotel rooms, we chose two nearby apartments inside Old Town. The combined cost was competitive with booking multiple hotel rooms, and the apartments gave us more room and a closer connection to the neighborhood.

The exterior walls and lanes surrounding our accommodations felt centuries old. Many buildings in central Hvar reflect architectural development from the late medieval, Renaissance, and Baroque periods. Inside, however, the apartments had been thoroughly modernized with air conditioning, updated bathrooms, and contemporary amenities.

The contrast was part of the appeal: historic stone walls on the outside and modern comfort inside. From the upper apartment where my daughters stayed, we could look down a narrow series of stone steps toward the harbor. It was peaceful, atmospheric, and distinctly Mediterranean.

Hotel vs. Apartment in Hvar

• Hotels around the harbor offer dedicated service, elevators, luggage assistance, and immediate waterfront access. They are the better choice for travelers who prioritize convenience and minimal stair-climbing.
• Apartments inside Old Town offer more living space, full kitchens, and the immersive experience of staying inside a historic neighborhood. They work especially well for families or groups needing multiple bedrooms.

Our First Evening in Hvar

We arrived at approximately 5:00 p.m. Because we had already adjusted to the time zone during our stay in Dubrovnik, we were ready to settle in quickly and begin exploring. We unpacked, organized ourselves, and headed back out.

I had noticed a small bar while walking into town that looked exactly like the type of place I enjoy finding when I travel: tucked away, full of character, and slightly removed from the main tourist path.

That place was BackLane Craft Bar.

Cocktails at BackLane Craft Bar

BackLane is hidden within the streets of Hvar’s Old Town, just behind the main harbor area. Its focus is on craft cocktails and farm-to-bar ingredients, operating on a first-come, first-served basis.

The setting immediately won us over. It occupied a small historic space, with most guests gathered outside along the narrow stone lane. Tables and benches sat directly on the uneven stones. Some wobbled slightly because nothing in a centuries-old lane is perfectly level—an imperfection that only made the experience better.

We sat outdoors, enjoyed carefully crafted drinks, and let the evening unfold around us. Then we started talking with the family seated nearby.

They were visiting from Minnesota and had just completed a full day of e-biking across the island. Until that conversation, we had no idea that this type of self-guided island tour was available.

Our plan for the following day had been intentionally open. After hearing about the quiet roads, lavender fields, and historic countryside they had explored, we changed our plans on the spot. Right there from the bar, we looked up the rental company, Bike Hvar, found availability, and reserved our e-bikes for the next morning.

That decision led to one of the best days of the trip. Talk to people when you travel—guidebooks provide knowledge, but conversations provide momentum.

An Unexpected Dinner at Mediterraneo Dine & Wine

Across and down the steps from BackLane, I noticed an intimate open-air restaurant called Mediterraneo Dine & Wine.

Mediterraneo is a family-run restaurant recognized and recommended by the Michelin Guide (though it is Michelin-recommended, not Michelin-starred). It boasts over 70 years of local culinary history with a menu centered heavily on seafood and regional specialties.

Most restaurants at that level are difficult to enter without an advance reservation during peak summer. I spoke with the hostess, Nathalie, explaining that we were a party of five. Although fully booked, she spoke with Luka and the culinary team. They looked carefully at the evening's schedule and found a window to accommodate us without rushing our meal or compromising service for later guests.

That level of genuine hospitality set the tone for the entire meal.

Fire, Wine, and a Memorable Meal

Our steak was grilled over an open fire close enough for us to watch the process. The flames, heat, stone setting, and aroma created an atmosphere that was both elemental and refined.

We paired dinner with outstanding Croatian wines:

• Pošip: One of Croatia’s premier indigenous white grapes, historically linked to the nearby island of Korčula. It produces full-bodied white wines with notes of citrus, Mediterranean herbs, and crisp minerality that pair exceptionally well with seafood and grilled meats.
• Plavac Mali: The primary red grape of coastal Dalmatia. Grown on sunny ocean-facing slopes, it produces rich, deeply colored red wines packed with dark fruit, spice, and robust tannins.

Dinner concluded with a raspberry dessert crafted to look like a piece of raw fruit—fresh, balanced, and visually stunning.

Tip: While we were fortunate, do not assume a table will be available walk-in. Always reserve Mediterraneo Dine & Wine in advance, especially for larger groups.

Specialty Coffee at kava37

The following morning, I walked down the stone steps for coffee at Kava37.

Founded in Hvar in 2018 by Ivana and Marko, kava37 transformed a small neglected space into a premier specialty coffee shop (they have since expanded with a café and roastery in Split). The Hvar location is seasonal, serving exceptional light-roast specialty coffees throughout the warmer months.

The interior is tiny, but the real pleasure comes from taking an espresso or pour-over outside to sit along the stone lane in the cool Mediterranean morning air.

We picked up a few small breakfast items from a nearby sandwich shop before heading off to collect our e-bikes—a story that continues in Part 3.

Why Hvar Town Worked for Us

Our first 24 hours revealed why Hvar Town is such a compelling base:

• Everything is close: Harbor, apartments, restaurants, cafés, and historic squares are fully accessible on foot.
• Living history: These are not static monuments; local residents live, work, and dine within these centuries-old stone structures.
• Atmospheric depth: Beyond the high-energy waterfront nightlife lies a balanced community of family-run businesses, quiet alleys, and historic charm.
• Human scale: The physical layout of the narrow lanes naturally encourages conversation between travelers and locals.

How Many Nights Should You Stay in Hvar?

While a day trip from Split covers the basics, staying overnight lets you experience the town after the crowds depart. I recommend staying at least 3 nights.

Mike’s Hvar Travel Tips

1. Book ferry tickets early: Summer sailings fill up fast.
2. Verify your carrier: Double-check whether your ticket is directly from an operator (TP Line, Krilo) or via a broker (Ferryhopper).
3. Map the footpaths: Check stairways and inclines between the port and your accommodation before dragging rolling luggage.
4. Skip the car in town: Old Town Hvar is entirely pedestrianized.
5. Reserve dining early: Book Michelin-recommended spots like Mediterraneo in advance.
6. Drink local: Try Pošip for white wine and Plavac Mali for red.
7. Start at kava37: Grab specialty coffee early before the morning lines form.
8. Explore the back alleys: The best craft bars and restaurants sit tucked behind the main Riva.
9. Stay overnight: Hvar transforms into a serene, atmospheric haven once day-trippers leave.

Lessons From the Road: Leave Room for the Unexpected

Within hours of arriving in Hvar, three unscheduled events occurred: we discovered a hidden craft cocktail bar, met travelers who completely transformed our next day's itinerary, and were welcomed into a premier restaurant without a reservation.

None of those moments were on our original itinerary, yet they became the highlights of our trip.

Plans give a trip structure, but people give it life. Leave room in your schedule for spontaneous discovery.

Frequently Asked Questions About Hvar

Is Hvar worth visiting?

Yes. Hvar combines historic Venetian architecture, a walkable waterfront, world-class dining, indigenous wines, and access to pristine Adriatic waters. It appeals to food lovers, history enthusiasts, families, and outdoor adventurers alike.

Is Hvar an island or a town?

Both. Hvar is the name of the entire island, while Hvar Town is the primary historic harbor settlement. Other major towns on the island include Stari Grad, Jelsa, and Vrboska.

Where does the ferry from Dubrovnik arrive?

High-speed passenger catamarans arrive directly at Hvar Town harbor, placing you steps from the Riva and Old Town. Always verify your destination port, as car ferries dock in Stari Grad.

How long is the ferry from Dubrovnik to Hvar?

The ferry journey takes approximately 3 to 3.5 hours on direct high-speed catamarans, depending on route stops such as Korčula.

Is the Dubrovnik-to-Hvar ferry available year-round?

Direct catamarans between Dubrovnik and Hvar are seasonal, generally operating from April through October. Winter travel typically requires routing through Split.

Do I need a rental car in Hvar Town?

No. Hvar Town is pedestrian-only. Cars are only useful if you plan to explore remote parts of the island independently without booking tours, taxis, or e-bikes.

Is Mediterraneo a Michelin-starred restaurant? Mediterraneo Dine & Wine is recommended by the Michelin Guide. It is a Michelin-recommended establishment recognized for culinary excellence, but it does not hold a Michelin star.

Behind the Postcard: How I Would Capture Hvar

If I were designing a travel poster for Hvar, the foreground would feature the harbor's clear water and wooden boats. Rising behind them would be the pale limestone buildings, St. Stephen's bell tower, and the Venetian fortress anchoring the skyline.

The palette would be simple: deep Adriatic blue, sunlit limestone, terracotta tile, and deep Mediterranean green. It would capture a place where history, sea, and everyday life sit side by side.

Coming Next: Exploring Hvar Beyond the Harbor

The next morning, coffees in hand, we left Hvar Town to begin an e-bike journey across the island interior. What followed was an eight-hour ride through lavender fields, historic stone villages, and a candlelit wine tasting in an ancient cellar.

Continue to Part 3: Beyond Hvar Town—Lavender Fields, Medieval Villages, and Family Wineries by E-Bike

Reader Disclosure

Ferry schedules, business operating seasonal dates, and restaurant menus change regularly. Verify current departure times and reservations directly with providers before traveling.

Further Reading

Three Days in Dubrovnik

Why Europe Changes the Way You See the World