One Last Adventure on Hvar: Fresh-Caught Fish, Vis Island, Mamma Mia Locations, and the Blue Cave
Croatia, Part 4
By Mike Whalen | Mike’s Journal | TravelPosters.com
There are certain travel days when you return to your room completely exhausted, yet instantly know you wouldn't change a single detail. Our e-bike adventure across Hvar’s interior had been one of those days—riding 20 miles through lavender fields, exploring Vrboska, sampling local wines, and discovering the quiet soul of the island.
By the time Igor, our driver, dropped us back in Hvar Town, we were sun-soaked, tired, and ready for a warm shower. But we were also hungry. Fortunately, Hvar had another unforgettable culinary experience waiting for us, followed by a day-long sea excursion across the Adriatic.
Dining Local in Hvar Town: Fresh Catch at Restaurant Junior
After cleaning up, we walked through Hvar’s stone alleys toward Restaurant Junior, a multi-generational, family-run konoba tucked away in a quiet lane just off the main harbor.
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Restaurant Detail |
Details & Specifications |
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Location |
Hvar Town (Off the main Riva) |
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Establishment Type |
Family-Run Traditional Croatian Konoba |
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Core Specialty |
Wild-caught Adriatic Sea Fish & Seafood Risotto |
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Generational History |
Founded ~30 years ago by grandmother; run by granddaughter Marija; father catches daily fish |
Marija, the granddaughter of the founder, greeted us. Her father had spent that very morning fishing in the open Adriatic, and his catch became our dinner.
They brought out our prospective meal whole: a 1.7 kg Dentex (Dentex dentex), a prized Mediterranean fish known for firm, white flesh and sweet flavor. Along the Dalmatian Coast, wild fish is priced by the kilogram. They weighed it, showed us the catch, and sent it to the kitchen.
What returned was a sea-to-table fish duet prepared with minimal intervention—olive oil, garlic, and fresh herbs—complemented by a savory shrimp risotto, fresh local bread, crisp Dalmatian salad, and crisp local white wine (Pošip).
There is a profound difference between eating seafood near the sea and eating seafood pulled from the water hours before your meal. Authentic family konobas maintain direct fishing links, ensuring true sea-to-table dining while supporting local island economies.
Evening Rituals: The Dalmatian Riva and Gelato
After dinner, we joined the traditional evening stroll. Across Southern Europe, this unhurried walk is an institution: Italy calls it the passeggiata, Spain the paseo, and along Croatia’s coast, the seaside Riva becomes the island’s collective living room.
We grabbed artisanal gelato near St. Stephen’s Square (Trg Sv. Stjepana), listened to an unscheduled live acoustic performance along the waterfront, and watched the harbor light up under a clear night sky.
Day Excursion: Speedboat Tour to Vis, Biševo, and the Blue Cave
The following morning brought an eight-hour maritime expedition across the Vis Archipelago.
Hvar Harbor ➔ Snorkeling Cove ➔ Komiža (Vis) ➔ Mamma Mia Cliffs ➔ Biševo (Blue Cave) ➔ Hvar
Essential Boat Tour Specifications
- Excursion Duration: 8 to 9 Hours
- Vessel Type: Open Speedboat with hard roof or Bimini Top (Shade Roof)
- Group Size: ~10 Passengers (Ideal for personal space and agility)
- Key Destinations: Biševo (Blue Cave), Vis Island (Komiža), Stiniva Cove, Budikovac (Blue Lagoon)
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| CRITICAL ADVICE: GET A BOAT WITH A CANOPY / ROOF |
| 8+ hours of direct Mediterranean sun and water mirror |
| reflection will cause severe sun exposure without |
| adequate shade. Always confirm a hard roof or bimini top exists. |
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Marine Life Encounters & Local Species Science
Our first swim stop was an uncrowded cove along the rocky coastline of Vis. Outfitted with masks, we explored the clear waters and encountered a small Common Octopus (Octopus vulgaris) hiding among the limestone rocks. With guidance from our skipper, we briefly handled the octopus before safely releasing it back to its habitat.
Further along the Vis coast we stopped at a rocky beach where they had also filmed scenes from Mama Mia and we had the pleasure of doing some more cliff jumping! After we had our jumps in, our captain retrieved two distinct sea urchins from the seafloor to explain local Mediterranean fishing lore versus actual marine biology:
Sea Urchin Species Breakdown
- The "Male" Urchin (Fisherman Folklore): Deep black coloration, longer spines. Scientifically identified as Arbacia lixula.
- The "Female" Urchin (Fisherman Folklore): Purple-brown coloration, shorter spines. Scientifically identified as Paracentrotus lividus.
- The Biological Reality: Both species contain male and female individuals. However, Paracentrotus lividus is the species harvested for edible sea urchin roe (uni) across Croatian and Mediterranean raw bars.
Vis Island & Filming Locations: Komiža Town
Our main land stop was Komiža, an ancient fishing village on the western side of Vis. Because Vis served as a restricted military base during the Yugoslav era (1944–1989), foreign tourism was prohibited. This historical isolation inadvertently preserved its traditional stone architecture, unblemished coastline, and authentic fishing heritage.
- Hollywood Connection: Komiža and the surrounding bays served as the primary set for the 2018 movie Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again, standing in for the fictional Greek island of Kalokairi. The distinctive blue shutters on the one house are easily recognizable from the water side. We could see it clearly from our vantage point while we had lunch.
- Lunch Stop: Restaurant & Bar Dal Mare (Address: Riva Svetoga Mikule 17, 21485, Komiža). We dined along the waterfront on Dalmatian prosciutto (pršut), local hard cheese, grilled shrimp, fresh bread, and cold sparkling water and white wine.
- After Lunch play: When we finished our lunch we went over to the main area of the harbor/marina where we had seen several people jumping off the stone walls into the deep blue azure water. It is only about 15’ high into the water and the best thing is to run and jump on an angle at the corner to go over into the sea. Note that you need to climb up the interior wall a little, but it is definitely a cool thing to do and well worth it!
The Headline Attraction: Entering the Blue Cave (Modra Špilja)
Located on the small island of Biševo, the Blue Cave requires a specific entry process:
- Transfer Station: Larger excursion boats dock at Mezuporat Cove.
- Ticketing & Queue: Tickets are entry-numbered; visitors board small, official wooden tenders operated by the nautical park.
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Low-Clearance Entrance: The natural rock opening is barely 1.5 meters high. Passengers must duck completely below the gunwales as the skipper times the swell.
The Optics: Why the Cave Glows
The electric, fluorescent cobalt light inside the cave does not come from the above-water entrance. Sunlight enters through a massive submerged archway directly beneath the sea level. As light hits the white limestone seabed, it reflects upward through the water column, filtering out red light spectrums and filling the chamber with an ethereal blue radiance while underwater objects take on a shimmering silver effect.
- Historical Note: While local fishermen knew of the cave for centuries, it was popularized globally in 1884 by Austrian painter and explorer Baron Eugen von Ransonnet, after which the outer entrance was slightly expanded using explosives to allow small boats entry.
Field Guide: Blue Cave & Vis Excursion Preparation
- Shade Selection: Confirm your tour company uses a boat equipped with a functional canvas shade roof.
- Hydration Needs: Pack at least 1.5L of extra fresh water per person beyond supplied beverages to offset saltwater dehydration.
- Footwear Requirements: Wear sturdy rubber water shoes; limestone shores and pebble beaches are sharp and frequented by sea urchins.
- Cave Contingency: The Blue Cave closes instantly if southern winds (Jugo) create high swells at the low entrance. If closed, re-route focus to Stiniva Cove, Budikovac Lagoon, or the Green Cave (Zelena Špilja) on Ravnik.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is the Blue Cave located in Croatia?
The Blue Cave (Modra špilja) is located in Mezuporat Cove on the eastern side of Biševo Island, roughly 5 nautical miles southwest of Vis Island and 20 nautical miles from Hvar Town.
How do you access the Blue Cave from Hvar?
You can access the cave via daily 8-to-10-hour open speedboat excursions departing from Hvar Harbor. These tours typically combine Biševo with Vis Island, Komiža, Stiniva Cove, and the Pakleni Islands.
Can you swim inside the Blue Cave?
No. Swimming inside the Blue Cave has been strictly prohibited by local environmental protection laws to preserve the delicate marine ecosystem and maintain visitor safety inside the narrow water transit route.
What is the best time of day to visit the Blue Cave for optimal lighting?
The glowing optical effect is strongest between 11:00 AM and 2:00 PM, when the sun reaches the direct angle necessary to penetrate the submerged archway and reflect off the seafloor.
What movie was filmed on Vis Island?
The 2018 musical feature Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again was filmed extensively across Vis Island, utilizing Komiža Harbor, Barjoška Bay, and Stiniva Beach as stand-ins for Greece.
Final Night in Hvar & Logistics
After returning to Hvar Town, we capped off our visit with a relaxed dinner at La Bocca, located directly on St. Stephen’s Square (Trg Sv. Stjepana), enjoying stone-baked pizza, house wine, and open-air views of the historic piazza.
Next Destination: Ferry transit from Hvar Harbor direct to Split, Croatia for three days of ancient Roman history inside Diocletian’s Palace.
Further Reading
From Hvar Town to the Island's Hidden Heart
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SUNLIGHT